How to Minimize Enlarged Pores and Blackheads

Written by: Desiree Stordahl
Medically Reviewed by: Corey L. Hartman MD Board-Certified Dermatologist

When skin produces too much oil, it mixes with dead skin in the pore, forming a clog that causes it to enlarge (4). If the oil becomes trapped by dead skin, it oxidizes, forming a blackhead.

Fear not: Using the right pore minimizing products consistently can help mitigate these issues, but first you need to know exactly what works and what doesn't, as well as how enlarged pores and blackheads form in the first place.

Why do I have enlarged pores?

It all begins when your oil glands make too much oil. This excess oil mixes with other substances (such as dead skin) in the pore, causing a clog (3). Not surprisingly, this clog makes it difficult for the oil to flow freely, which causes the pore itself to enlarge.

Even though the pore enlarges to provide extra room for the oil to flow out, the oil still can become trapped within the pore (especially around the nose) by dead skin. Once this occurs, the oil and dead skin at the end of the clogged pore becomes exposed to air, it oxidizes, forming a blackhead. Yuck!

Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman emphasizes that “oil production and pore size are largely genetically determined.” This means that although we can try our best to temporarily reduce the size of pores with impactful skin care ingredients, we can’t completely eliminate them! That’s a good thing, because pores play a necessary role in skin’s overall health, so you wouldn’t want to have pore less skin anyway.

Enlarged pores dos and don'ts

Knowing which parts of your skin care routine could be making the problem worse, as well as which products are going to deliver the best results, is your best defense against blackheads and enlarged pores (1). Follow these guidelines to get the smooth, clear complexion you want.

• Don’t use bar soap or other skin care products that clog pores. The ingredients that keep bar soap in its solid form are usually comedogenic (another way of saying they cause blackheads). You should also avoid products that are overly emollient (meaning thick or greasy creams)—especially if you have oily skin.
• Only use gentle, water-soluble cleansers and avoid products with drying, harsh ingredients. Surprisingly, these can make oiliness worse.
• Avoid harsh scrubs and cleansing brushes with stiff bristles. The longstanding myth that you can scrub away blackheads is false. The harshness just makes skin dry and flaky, creating more dead skin that can block pores.
• Never go to bed without washing off your makeup. Neglecting to thoroughly, but gently, remove all your makeup can make clogged pores worse.
• Exfoliate with a completely non-abrasive, leave-on salicylic acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid, or BHA) liquid to shed built up dead surface skin that would normally gather in the pore, stretching it out, and risk turning into a blackhead.
• One more point about BHA (beta hydroxy acid): because BHA can exfoliate inside the pore, it can help return the pore to its normal shape and allow for a more even flow of oil. It really is amazing how well this works.
• Use products loaded with niacinamide. Once a pore has stretched beyond its normal size, niacinamide can help provide a "tightened-up" look by boosting skin’s healthy, natural quality. The research about how niacinamide benefits skin is impressive.

What methods help enlarged pores?

For particularly stubborn enlarged pores and blackheads, consider the following additional measures to see if they can help you achieve even better results:

• Absorbing excess oil with a clay mask can temporarily help minimize the appearance of enlarged pores due to clay’s oil-absorbing properties. As always, look for a clay mask that does not contain added harsh ingredients. You can also try an oil-absorbing product meant to be worn under makeup.
• If stubborn blackheads won’t go away, consider extraction from a well-trained aesthetician. An aesthetician who knows what they are doing can extract blackheads without damaging your skin. You can also try it yourself with an extracting tool but follow instructions carefully.
• Microdermabrasion with a suction device is an excellent way to routinely unclog the pores and hydrate the skin in a gentle manner. There are several devices on the market that accomplish this goal and add to a solid skin care regimen that keep oil in balance and pores relaxed.