Glycolic Acid for Skin

Written by: Bryan Barron 
Medically Reviewed by: Corey L. Hartman MD Board-Certified Dermatologist 
Updated on:1/30/2024

In this article:
What is glycolic acid?
What is glycolic acid used for?
Is glycolic acid good for all skin types?
Glycolic acid benefits
Choosing the right glycolic acid product
Glycolic acid exfoliants
Is glycolic acid right for me?
What concentration of glycolic acid is effective?
Can you use glycolic acid with retinol?
Glycolic acid side effects

A myriad of things, from daily environmental damage to simply getting older, impair our skin’s ability to renew itself as it once did. This leads to a buildup of dead, dull surface skin that prevents your complexion’s naturally healthy appearance from shining through.

Glycolic acid, particularly when formulated as a leave-on exfoliant, expertly tackles dead skin cell buildup to help achieve more youthful, vibrant and even skin. An integral part of any well-rounded skin care regimen looking to tackle texture, tone, and signs of aging, routine use of this AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) ensures skin's radiance in the long term. Who doesn’t want that?

While there are different kinds of AHAs, including lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids, the one with the most long-term research proving its effectiveness is glycolic acid. Let’s get into all things glycolic acid, including all of its benefits, how to use it and finding the best glycolic acid skin care product for you.

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a type of AHA that is most well-known for its ability to exfoliate, helping shed dead skin while also increasing skin hydration (1). It occurs naturally in sugar cane but is most effective when synthesized in a lab, where its potency and concentration are optimized for use in skin care. Using plant sugars for their glycolic acid content is an option, but the bulk of the research on glycolic acid’s benefits for skin is about the synthetic form because this type of glycolic acid can be optimized for effectiveness, purity, stability, and pH—all of which are critical for creating effective glycolic acid products (2).

What is glycolic acid used for?

Glycolic acid is most commonly used as a leave-on exfoliant for skin. Like other AHAs, it unglues the bonds of dead skin trapped to the surface, so that spent, dull cells can slough off and reveal the healthier, smoother skin hiding underneath.

This type of exfoliation can be used to address numerous skin concerns, including sun damage, uneven tone, rough, flaky patches of skin, fine lines and wrinkles.

Glycolic acid is also a star player in high-strength chemical peels that dermatologists and other trained professionals use during in-office treatments (3).

Is glycolic acid good for all skin types?

Glycolic acid is safe for all skin types and has a long history of benefiting skin (4). However, glycolic acid is best suited for those with dry-to-normal skin with signs of aging, uneven tone and those experiencing stubborn signs of environmental damage. It’s also great for those with oily or breakout-prone skin (5).

This acid is one of the most powerful AHAs due to its small molecule size, which allows glycolic acid to slip past skin’s surface and penetrate a bit further. Although this penetration makes glycolic acid more beneficial, it also increases the chances of sensitivity. If you’re looking to reap the benefits of glycolic acid and are nervous about sensitivity, experiment with usage cadence and make sure to use sunscreen during the day and a nourishing moisturizer at night.

Glycolic acid benefits

The major benefits of using an exfoliant with glycolic acid for your face include:

• A smoother, brighter and more even-toned complexion.
• Reduction in the appearance of dark spots that can appear after breakouts (6).
• Skin looking and feeling younger through visibly minimizing the look of fine lines and wrinkles while also helping firm skin’s architecture (7).
• Studies also show that glycolic acid significantly increases skin hydration. Not only is it a humectant, it also helps skin make substances like mucopolysaccharides, which boost skin’s ability to stay hydrated by increasing its natural content of hyaluronic acid (8).
• Addressing the signs of sun damage on skin.

Choosing the right glycolic acid product

Not all glycolic acid skin care products are created equally! No matter your skin type or concerns, The pH of a glycolic acid product is an important factor. A pH between 3 and 4 is considered the optimal range for glycolic acid to work effectively as an exfoliant. Straying outside of this range can result in either a product that is irritating to skin or ineffective at exfoliating.

Beyond this, the product’s formulation shouldn’t contain any potentially sensitizing ingredients, like fragrance, essential oils or denatured alcohol. These ingredients can hinder skin’s health, causing both short-and long-term damage.

The right glycolic acid product also shouldn’t be one note. What do we mean by this? Well, the best glycolic acid exfoliant, toner or peel shouldn't just contain the exfoliating acid! It works best when supported with other skin-beneficial ingredients, like soothing agents and barrier repairing elements. Your skin will also love the added ingredients and see further benefits.